Bernard Arnault (center left) and Christian LaCroix (center right) on the day of LaCroix's haute couture debut. Paris, Feb. 3, 1987.
(Alexis Duclos/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
Bernard Arnault (center left) and Christian LaCroix (center right) on the day of LaCroix's haute couture debut. Paris, Feb. 3, 1987.
(Alexis Duclos/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
State of Fashion 2018, Stella McCartney, Fashion Tech Lab, Adidas Speedfactory, ComplexCon...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator November 30, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
I think people are still tremendously sentimental about their clothes, but what we've lost is an appreciation of construction, textiles, how things are made... That's what I'm trying to retrieve with this exhibition, so that people can understand that yes, it looks really pretty, and it's a Dior, but what is it about that garment, who worked on it, how did it get to be there?
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STELLA MCCARTNEY has been placing sustainability and environmental awareness at the core of her namesake label since founding it, 50/50, with KERING (then PPR) in 2001. The label has been savvy about which aspects of its environmental efforts to reveal and which to let go quietly unspoken. As customers have a desire—and an imminent need—to make better choices, companies will face challenges in how to own and advocate sustainability practices. I agree that we should find a new word to describe the mindful, environmentally aware practices that are necessary for long-term survival of the industry. As for sustainable luxury, it's fascinating to see how the conversation has changed. In CATHY HORYN's profile of McCartney from 2012, McCartney's husband, ALASDHAIR WILLIS, said that her values were "absolutely relevant to the times" and that "other brands are just beginning to catch on." That has been proven correct. And McCartney has played a leading role in bringing wider awareness to the industry. There are clear projections about dwindling future resources, so groups like KERING have financial reasons to look ahead. As McCartney's label marks sixteen years, it's expanding into high-profile partnerships with companies in biotechnology, sustainability research, and consignment resale. It will be interesting to see how the label maintains the kind of "sleeper" competitive advantage it's maintained over the years as competitors begin adopting similar practices. FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Stella McCartney, Fashion’s Sustainability Advocate... The fashion industry has been roundly criticized for a number of social and political issues from diversity to the treatment of models, and it has, in many cases, met the challenges publicly. Whether this is due to social media pressures, challenged business environments, or a sense of duty is up for debate. There's been a reflective tone in fashion, and in that way the industry has the opportunity to lead other sectors—if it can follow through with meaningful change. That sense of optimism is highlighted in BOF and MCKINSEY's joint report, The State of Fashion in 2018. The report includes interviews, predictions, and insights on everything from sustainability to emerging markets. Looking forward to delving further... Briefs: The "stomping on YEEZY" trend... KAREN VAN GODTSENHOVEN, former curator at MOMU, joins THE MET's COSTUME INSTITUTE... Another auction record for an HERMÈS HIMALAYA BIRKIN BAG at CHRISTIE'S in HONG KONG.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

November 30, 2017