1 GRANARY's conversation with CATHY HORYN offers some sharp insights on the industry and a strong sense of perspective on history—how the past continually inflects the present. Horyn says she spends a lot of time thinking about the past, mentioning HONORÉ DE BALZAC's writing about the changing world in the midst of industrialization. With the spread of the internet, fashion is in the midst of sweeping industrial change yet again, and the industry's ability to contextualize its legacies from a business and cultural perspective is crucial. How well is fashion's history represented in education? For design, for business?... The emphasis on what came before had me thinking about a recently-opened exhibition organized by my friend EMMA MCCLENDON, called "The Body: Fashion and Physique." The show is on view at the MUSEUM AT FIT’s history gallery, a space that rotates exhibitions with the goal of presenting how fashion has changed over time, with each show organized around a central theme. "The Body" shows how fashion exemplifies the ideal body and, at the same time, drives prevailing ideals to change. Some of the exhibition's most memorable examples show how the fashionable body is celebrated or condemned through media. There are nineteenth-century caricatures of men fitfully lacing women into corsets and sketches of older women dressed in the height of fashion, yet pitifully viewed as "fashion victims." Turn the corner and there's a screen playing JANE FONDA’s workout video from the 1980s. Body ideals often arrive by consensus, yet the exhibition shows that there are always shades of difference and countermovements within fashionable ideals. LANE BRYANT's marketing of plus-sizes surfaces throughout the show, from its "Stout Women" collections in the early twentieth century to PRABAL GURUNG's 2017 collaboration with the retailer. CHROMAT's recent caged design echoes the structure of a crinoline from the mid-1800s; in fashion, forms resurface, as do its debates—yet meanings change. Is fashion headed toward a broader range of ideals? The show's final focus is on the momentum toward inclusive styles, showing fashion's function as a vehicle for advocacy in recent years… Briefs: When was the last time you noticed website design when shopping online? Notice this: an "immersive browser-based window shopping experience" courtesy of FEEL.THATSH.IT. Domain hacks... COLETTE, now in its final days, dropped some merch at NYC's STORY... Inspired by VHS.