JIL SANDER, both the label and the company’s founder, have been surfacing recently. For pre-fall 2018, the label debuted its third season (well, two pre-seasons and one official season) under creative directors LUCIE and LUKE MEIER, a keenly scrutinized appointment given the designers’ previous work—Lucie at BALENCIAGA, DIOR, LOUIS VUITTON and Luke at SUPREME and OAMC. Meanwhile, Jil Sander herself is the subject of a recently opened exhibition, ”Jil Sander. Present Tense,” in FRANKFURT. In the absence of an archive, the garments in the exhibition are recreations of past designs. So there's new-old Jil Sander on view at the MUSEUM ANGEWANDTEN KUNST and new-new Jil Sander on the runway and in stores. Both are reconsidering the meaning of the label's heritage, creating perspectives that merge and intersect across time. I like the intersection of the two. For many of today's well-known houses, the push and pull between foundation and reinvention are about finding an equilibrium that resonates with customers at any given time, meaning right now. And for fans of fashion, the internet has made information and heritage increasingly visible—and available. Sander has been dropping some wonderful insights on her career and says she hopes to see the Meiers succeed. It will be fascinating to see how the label evolves... KANYE and KIM got media-savvy on fashion by announcing YEEZY season 6 through paparazzi-style images shared on social media. At this point, MR. and MRS. WEST’s hype machine nearly writes itself. Is there also a practical reason for the move, given the large amount of investment it takes to throw runway extravaganzas? Either way, it suits the label's of-the-current-millisecond style... In brief: COMPLEX has your nostalgia right here with 90 '90s trends... UNIBAIL buys US and UK mall operator WESTFIELD... LVMH will open the doors of its production sites for a fourth time with LES JOURNÉES PARTICULIÈRES, set for October next year.