RICK OWENS and JIL SANDER recreated past designs for their retrospective exhibitions, dedicating new garments to work that—in the absence of archives—had been sold or lost to time. Retrospect has always been a powerful force in fashion. Yet I wonder if the recreation of past designs, to spec, has happened before with such regularity. For his runway return in PARIS, ANDRE WALKER relied on garments lent to him by friends who’d collected his work over the years, in order to recreate designs originally from the 1980s. PENDLETON supplied the fabric in 2017, so Walker's collection is both revival and brand new. Street/sportswear is seeing success in getting retro, with NAUTICA and POLO dropping capsule collections recreated from the past. FILA is selling vintage online, and brand after brand is reissuing or re-imagining some prior look. It's part nostalgia, part respect for heritage, part flattening effect of e-commerce and online vintage, where customers can discover a brand from any point in time as long as it's online. And there's plenty to explore: "sold out" product pages, vintage on EBAY, ETSY, GRAILED, nostalgic fashion photos on INSTAGRAM. The social context for these garments has amplified and changed, and it would be great to see more of those stories told in street/sportswear. From a market perspective, there can be discrepancies in quality between then and now. Are labels adequately addressing this when a 20-year-old hoodie can be had in the same checkout as the latest drop online? Or when labels like NOAH are bringing back the quality of sportswear from an earlier time?... JONATHAN SAUNDERS exited DVF after 18 months and three collections. It's a challenging moment for mid-market fashion, which at alternate times has been called the "bridge" or "contemporary" market. Now it looks like the pressure-from-all-levels market. High fashion competes on branding and (often but not always) quality. Fast fashion competes on price. Streetwear is scooping out all levels. According to top buyers at several notable e-commerce stores, hyped items like BALENCIAGA's TRIPLE-S sneaker have been selling out and driving growth. DVF could use a hit. Like those jersey wrap dresses once upon a time... In brief: MICHAEL KORS announced the company is going fur-free... HYPEBEAST selects 10 emerging brands for 2017... Applications are open for the LVMH PRIZE... SEOUL's B-boys.