The rush backstage. Kenzo Takada and model during S/S 1992 prêt-à-porter, Oct. 20, 1991.
(John van Hasselt/Sygma/Getty Images)
The rush backstage. Kenzo Takada and model during S/S 1992 prêt-à-porter, Oct. 20, 1991.
(John van Hasselt/Sygma/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Streetwear Fans of a Certain Age, Style at New Afrika Shrine, Maison Alaïa, NBA Jerseys...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator December 19, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
The fashion business and show business have more than a few things in common. They are full of richness and pageantry, giving even the casual viewer something interesting to watch... Both depend on creative people and sell that ephemeral quality called talent; the result is that — even for seasoned professionals — a performance can be brilliant, controversial, uneven, merely competent or, alas, inadequate. Occasionally, there is a heartwarming comeback, and there are always talented newcomers on the way up.
Carrie Donovan, 1979
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

Young people have galvanized the streetwear movement, and their inventiveness and entrepreneurialism—writing bots, cataloging drops, trading and reselling online—has brought mainstream awareness and investment. There have been countless stories of young people's involvement (often online) in international matters of business, commerce, and politics, with some, like the MIRAI botnet, resulting in unintended consequences. But what about fans that don't fall into that cultural construct of "kids"? What of the fans of middle age, those refreshing their browsers on the latest drop from a corporate office park in a sun-drenched suburban city, or hip septuagenarians with local ties to the first SUPREME store? Two profiles on streetwear enthusiasts from DAZED and HIGHSNOBIETY confound preconceived notions of just who fuels the international fervor for streetwear. LANCE WALSH, is a London-based proprietor of a street-side fruit stall (age 57, INSTAGRAM followers: 30k), and another, CHARLES ALLCROFT, is a former art history professor, performance artist, and STRAND warehouse employee (age 73). Both profiles are refreshing proof that there is no typical picture of a streetwear fan. 2017 has been something of a banner year for streetwear. With streetwear's further entry into the mainstream, CALUM GORDON poses the question of whether it can maintain its cool amid rapid expansion. Good question. Looking back at how retro sportswear, streetwear, and fashion have flirted with each other in the past, I came across this NYT article from 1995 by AMY SPINDLER. Spindler found that "as designer attention has turned away from street style, there is the sense that existing outside that spotlight has made street style irrelevant," and that streetwear had begun following fashion in a kind of role reversal. It was a much different time, but if streetwear were to take cues from fashion in 2018, what would that look like? Is it already happening in some capacity?... After the devastating loss of its founder, MAISON ALAÏA will continue on with runway shows in January and March. A foundation has been established to preserve the designer’s legacy. Here's hoping there is some form of endowment to keep it that way... Briefs: VIRGIL ABLOH will have an exhibition at MCA CHICAGO in 2019... More updates on USA denim manufacturing... Catching up with MARK BRIDGES, costume designer of PHANTOM THREAD.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

December 19, 2017