Selling out has been a potent image in fashion and style this year, from literally seeing products sell out in seconds (care of sneakerbots) to tracking the tailwinds of authenticity in design and business. It's all about tipping to demand—how far to push forward in bald pursuit of profit, and knowing the gains that might be derived from restraint. Example? The dilemma companies face in releasing finite numbers of YEEZY BOOSTS into the world, or flooding the market with cult handbags. "I think about the dangers of selling out every day." DEMNA GVASALIA told VESTOJ's ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG. It struck me that Gvasalia spoke at length about details in his designs that people missed. He describes a trench coat he showed for VETEMENTS Fall 2017 that was fully lined with a dress a person could wear, "but you have to put it on to know that." For a designer who's been associated with fashion’s version of the hot take, it could seem ironic that there’s more—much more—to designs that seem tailor-made for the hype-and-scroll feedback loop. Yet irony has been another of Gvasalia's calling cards at Vetements, and it seems that hovering somewhere between irony and total sincerity keeps the label in high demand. Gvasalia also addressed what it means to be authentic at the house founded by one of fashion’s most revered designers: CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA. Balenciaga purists would find little but blasphemy in the label's recent direction, but Gvasalia is well aware of the interplay between heritage and novelty. Are customers?... Cristóbal Balenciaga was one of the reasons PAUL THOMAS ANDERSON decided to draw on fashion for PHANTOM THREAD. In ZACH BARON's wonderful profile of Anderson, the director said he began reading up on Balenciaga after seeing a photo of the designer in an airport. He found that Balenciaga had "taste, skill, talent. The full package... he was protective of his work." Those characteristics were channeled by the fictional fashion designer played by DANIEL DAY-LEWIS. Looking forward to seeing it. Opens December 25... Briefs: MARVIN TRAUB ASSOCIATES delivers a primer on blockchain... How scrunchies came to be... Bids for STYLENANDA... Sweater party... FashionREDEF is taking a break for XMAS, but we'll be back with some special edition newsletters next week. Happy holidays to all.