Designers have swept in and out of luxury labels so frequently that, in addition to consistent chatter about PHOEBE PHILO's exit from CÉLINE, the move isn't entirely surprising. It feels almost procedural as much as it is disheartening. Philo's reach into wider fashion—as a bearer of sensibility, design, and what people want to wear on any given day or decade—is immeasurable. Céline's rise after Philo's arrival was sensational, with cult handbags and style that was endlessly mimicked and diffused, from mass market to the runway. There was a soulfulness to the clothes, and a sense of time and care put into the label—offering women design based on principles of quality, ease, and sophistication. Philo consistently struck those chords. In recent years, Céline has been more of a stalwart presence, offering a sense of stability and calm amid increasingly aggressive bids for (increasingly shorter bouts of) time and attention. In 2017, a sense of tranquility feels like the ultimate luxury, but under fashion as a driven business, consistency can sometimes feel like its own risk. CATHY HORYN wrote a wonderful piece connecting Philo’s departure to a wider cultural respect for time. Can fashion, which trades on the time it takes to create beautiful things worn on the body, buy itself more time? Will fashion media turn into a tracker for designer refresh rates? There is now a chance for Céline to evolve. Yet defining a new era for the label will be like filling a gulf… The turnaround of plus-size retailer ASHLEY STEWART has all the heroics of a folk legend: a business in a state of dilapidation and bankruptcy, with demoralized employees and a dismal future, turns around to become a beacon of retail success. It's a story settled against a backdrop of the plus-size movement, underestimated customers, and the personal dedication of CEO JAMES RHEE. And ICYMI, ROBIN GIVHAN's story on the company is a pleasure to read for its focus on Rhee's efforts to connect the company to people: customers and employees… In brief: T MAGAZINE selects 9 emerging brands... Behind-the-scenes video from the SACAI x UNDERCOVER runway show in TOKYO.