Long shadow. Models at a skating rink, Jan. 1, 1958.
(Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
Long shadow. Models at a skating rink, Jan. 1, 1958.
(Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Abasi Rosborough, DVF Appoints CDO, The Corruption of Techwear, Feng Chen Wang...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator January 5, 2018
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
The most important thing, after identifying the positioning of the brand, is attracting the right people. People are at the center of everything in the fashion industry, not just in terms of product, but in terms of creativity and business.
Marco Bizzarri, 2017
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

The off-price sector is fascinating to watch, but I sometimes wish for more segmentation in reports on the market. Off-price and resale retailers vary greatly in the customers they serve, how they obtain goods, and whether they're selling true overstock or a combination of overstock and outlet-specific goods. It'd be great to see the amount of surplus clothing over time and how much of that actually gets funneled into third-party (or a company's own) off-price retailers. BOF and MCKINSEY shared some fascinating statistics on off-price in their 2018 trends report, citing that two-thirds of shoppers in the US purchased from an off-price retailer in 2016. Thursday, TJX was downgraded by WELLS FARGO, citing a possible slowdown in the off-price market. With companies like THE OUTNET, THEREALREAL, YOOX, and department outlet stores now a regular part of the retail fashion landscape, MSRPs don’t feel reliably stable across a narrow in-season window, especially when people regularly shop multiple seasons at once. For emerging designers, the landscape can seem hard to break in to with all the noise and markdown cycles. It certainly increases the need for distilled, purposeful collections. With all the price flux, I wonder if off-price companies will experiment with algorithmic pricing as a way of acknowledging the market's pace... ABASI ROSBOROUGH has a sale up on GRAILED featuring limited edition and archive pieces. There’s a great interview with founders ABDUL ABASI and GREG ROSBOROUGH where they discuss the label's origins and staying true to their vision. There's some on-point styling happening in the accompanying editorial, self-photographed and art-directed by the designers. Shoutout to Greg for mentioning CLOAK, a menswear label formerly designed by ALEXANDRE PLOKHOV. It's a brand people still talk about despite the final collection having been shown over 10 years ago. If you haven’t heard of it, there are runway images available via VOGUE RUNWAY, and the documentary SEAMLESS follows Plokhov (and other contestants, including JACK MCCULLOUGH and LAZARO HERNANDEZ of PROENZA SCHOULER) in the run-up to the VOGUE/CFDA FASHION FUND. It's a classic. Definitely one to see if you haven't already... Briefs: NATHAN JENDEN is returning to DVF as chief design officer... Ex-COLETTE staffers launch a new concept store... Inflatable fashion from TANK.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

January 5, 2018