Back in black. Sept. 1, 1953
(Sharland/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
Back in black. Sept. 1, 1953
(Sharland/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
London Fashion Week Men's, CEO Talk With Victor Luis, Golden Globes, Charles Jeffrey...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator January 8, 2018
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
Black was worn by the religious orders in the Middle Ages, by the scholars and thinkers of the humanist Reformation, by the Dutch burghers and Puritan divines of the seventeenth century, and by the austere Spanish nobility. In a frivolous and colorful world, black is serious. Indeed, in certain perverse, extreme circumstances, it is far more than that—it is sinister.
Anne Hollander, 1984
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

In ANNE HOLLANDER's wonderful essay on the little black dress from 1984, she wrote, "black is the color of the unknown; it is everything and nothing." There is perhaps no other color (or rather, absence of color) that communicates power or sobriety so immediately. Addressing the all-black attire at the GOLDEN GLOBES (worn in support of TIME’S UP), ROBIN GIVHAN wrote that red carpet dressing is, at its heart, "Beautiful public relations for everyone concerned." True, and as VANESSA FRIEDMAN outlined in the NYT, the red carpet is big business. The context surrounding black clothing is always changing, yet it brings with it cultural connotations that surround us in art, literature, fashion, anti-fashion, and now—carefully calculated red carpet imagery. Is wearing black about mourning, power, elegance, religious piety? That's determined by time and place. Black draws the eye, creating contrast and sharp silhouettes. Alone, a color doesn't sustain political dialogue or the daily work required to create meaningful change, but it can instantly communicate. And the gap between instant communication and future plans for change had some red carpet observers feeling uneasy. How does an industry follow through with this kind of symbolic commitment? Stay tuned. For more on black, don't miss JOHN HARVEY's books on the subject: THE STORY OF BLACK and MEN IN BLACK... LONDON MEN'S FASHION WEEK kicked off over the weekend, and it was all about emerging talent. JOHN ALEXANDER SKELTON, CHARLES JEFFREY, XANDER ZHOU, and more... Briefs: A collection by KARL LAGERFELD's longtime bodyguard... MARC JACOBS will close its LONDON store... ANNA DELLO RUSSO's fashion collection is set for a charity auction.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

January 8, 2018