Giambattista Valli Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 22, 2018.
(Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 22, 2018.
(Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Craig Green, The Future of Running Gear, Fashion and Wokeness, Gaika, Hell on Heels...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator February 1, 2018
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
It was a very small scene and nobody cared. Now, everyone is so obsessed with the divisions of race and gender identity and gender politics and all this crazy stuff. We didn't give a s*** about that stuff. We were just like, if you dress cool, if you were cool, if you created art – we didn't care who your family was.
David LaChappelle, on NYC in the '80s, 2017
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

The street-sport ethos is strong in clothes right now, and NOAH DAVIS is on the trail with a look at the future of running gear. The desire for travel and movement has become an integral part of style, and the idea of "performance" is pushing companies to fill gaps in the wardrobe. PRADA SPORT is set for a comeback. VALENTINO has a sport line. Niche labels for equestrians, runners, and dancers have cropped up recently, founded on the notion that athletic styles—if designed well—can be worn from sport to street and back again. Yet crucially, these brands are delivering quality for a price, often below designer price points and above those of mass retailers. It's the spark that once made LULULEMON such a phenomenon. For many customers, even those who don't obsessively track quality, the versatility and longevity of the clothes create value and attachment to these brands. And the savvier, smaller brands fill gaps in quality where the bottom fell out at mass retailers. Yet these companies also wield a badge of association. There's a feeling that buyers are in league with the company's founding principles, and that those principles extend in an objective way to the product. Davis calls out some of it as "kumbaya garbage" (ha) but that earnest quality (no pun intended) is moving people to extreme loyalty, one of the only forms of insulation against today's snipe-and-buy, commoditized market for apparel. I can't wait to see where this might go with space travel. BLUE ORIGIN collab? SPACEX?... Briefs: GUCCI ANIMOJI... Is it a lungi?... An update on FARFETCH's store of the future.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

February 1, 2018