Hyun Mi Nielsen haute couture S/S 2018. Paris, Jan. 25, 2018.
(Bertrand Guay/AFP/Getty Images)
Hyun Mi Nielsen haute couture S/S 2018. Paris, Jan. 25, 2018.
(Bertrand Guay/AFP/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
State of the Union, Bode, New Designer at Marc Jacobs, Yeezy Season 6, Norman Norell...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator February 2, 2018
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Research firm L2 expects the market for menswear to grow faster than womenswear over the next two years. MARIA BOBILA has a summary of the report up at FASHIONISTA. It's a favorable prospect for the menswear scene, which has gained significant momentum and interest over the past decade. I'd suggest there's another potential market for menswear: women. Several labels are creating crossover collections, where the "men's" styles are either worn by women on the runway or adjusted slightly to fit a woman's physique. BERLUTI's recent collections are one example. "Borrowed from the boys" was a slogan popularized in fashion when PHOEBE PHILO's CÉLINE was in full fever-mode and JENNA LYONS was at the helm of J. CREW. The appeal's still there, albeit with more of a streetwear current today. I know plenty of women who order men's styles, whether it's graphic tees, sweatshirts, or bomber jackets. It represents a spread—not exactly gender-neutral, but simply men's styles that women want. For me, they have to fit. For pre-fall, I was happy to see MARTIN GRANT took some men's styles and adjusted the fit for women. The lookbook shows the pieces on a man and a woman, together. If menswear is set for accelerated growth, some men's labels may have a good response tweaking certain styles for women or offering a bespoke women's service to get the fit right. I'd go for it for labels like CRAIG GREEN... Fashion month has arrived, and despite all the talk about fashion week flux, something may be brewing with NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. Sometimes the best efforts come from those with something to prove, and New York has all the makings of an underdog ready to win one. Can it be the grand stage for upstart, local, and emerging talent? For international talent? There's a new CHINA DAY showcase this season. I'm looking forward to seeing ABASI ROSBOROUGH, which will hold its first runway show... NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN's begins Monday with BODE, a label that caused a minor sensation after its debut last year. GQ STYLE has a great profile on the label. Designer EMILY BODE is combining craft and provenance to create garments that come with a unique history. The label draws on networks of collectors, historical textiles, and a quilting factory in INDIA, so the idea of patchwork is integral to both the construction and the provenance of the garments. There are some stunning pieces of outerwear shown in GQ Style. Definitely one to watch... In brief: Selling off a SUPREME collection... EBAY to drop PAYPAL payments by 2023... BURBERRY FOUNDATION and OXFAM partner on a cashmere project.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

February 2, 2018